Seville is brimming with treasures, but some of its most beautiful discoveries lie on its outskirts. This is the case with Italica, the ancient Roman city, and the Monastery of San Isidoro del Campo, two historically rich sites that offer a striking contrast. The Seville City Guide set out to explore this fascinating duality on an organized tour. A perfectly orchestrated four-hour excursion through ancient ruins and medieval spirituality that left a lasting impression.
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Just twenty minutes after leaving Seville's city center, the minibus drops us off at the gates of Italica, the first Roman city founded by Scipio Africanus in Hispania and the birthplace of emperors like Trajan and Hadrian. The guided tour, led by a bilingual French-English guide and a Spanish-speaking guide, transforms these ruins into a veritable history book.
Before venturing into the archaeological site itself, a brief but essential stop at the interpretation center is a must. Located at the site's entrance, this small museum offers a glimpse into the city's history through clear information panels and a few key artifacts. It provides an opportunity to visualize Italica's importance as the birthplace of the Roman emperors Trajan and Hadrian. The center displays fragments of statues and everyday objects discovered at the site, creating a perfect transition between our time and the vastness of the ruins to come. Don't miss this introduction, which sets the historical context for the excursion.
Our exploration begins in the Nova Urbs (the new city). Here, we discover the plans of the vast patrician houses. Centuries have passed, but we can still sense the opulence of the era. The guides point out the sophisticated drainage systems and, above all, the spectacular mosaics that adorn the floors of the residences. Without giving too much away, expect mythological or geometric representations in impressive condition despite their exposure to the sun. It's a veritable open-air art gallery.
The route then leads through the facilities of Roman public life. The city had its own baths, essential to social life. Walking along the foundations allows one to imagine the citizens of the time moving between the frigidarium (cold bath) and the caldarium (hot bath). It is also at this point that one begins to grasp the scale of the city, designed with astonishing rigor and ingenuity, especially for that distant era.
The grand finale of the visit is reached when you arrive at the amphitheater. The contrast with the rest of the ruins is striking. Imposing and majestic, it is one of the largest in the Empire. Standing in the arena or climbing onto its tiers, your imagination takes over. You feel the weight of history, the cheers of the crowd, and the power of ancient Rome. It is the highlight of the day, worth the trip alone.
The amphitheater in Italica was used to represent the Dragon Pit in King's Landing during seasons 7 and 8 of Game of Thrones. Andalusia served as the backdrop for many filmings of the series.
After the splendor and bustle—real or imagined—of the Roman city, we set off again for a short journey to a radically different atmosphere: the Monastery of San Isidoro del Campo. This transition from pagan antiquity to the Christian medieval period creates an effect of great historical richness.
This fortified monastery, founded at the beginning of the 14th century, is a haven of peace. As soon as you pass through its gates, you are enveloped in an atmosphere of calm and contemplation. The architecture is magnificent, blending Gothic style with the Mudéjar art typical of Andalusia.
The interior tour allows us to admire the two churches, the cloisters, and the artistic treasures they house. It's an opportunity to appreciate the exquisite altarpieces and sculptures, far from the hustle and bustle of Seville's crowds. This lesser-known site is a gem for anyone seeking a place steeped in spiritual history and serene architectural beauty.
In the monastery courtyard, the orange trees are just beginning to blossom (it's September). The guide tells us that the season takes place in December and March, but these fruits are not edible, despite their sweet scent.
This half-day excursion was a complete success. The contrast between the Roman grandeur of Italica and the serenity of the monastery offers a comprehensive view of Andalusian history.
The guided tour proved to be the ideal choice:
The city of Italica and the monastery of San Isidoro del Campo are located in Santiponce, just north of Seville.
Entrance ticket prices may vary, but here is a typical overview (excluding the cost of the guided tour):
The organized tour we chose includes transport and entrance tickets in the overall price, simplifying logistics.
In short, if you're visiting Seville and looking for a morning escape filled with culture and history, this organized excursion to Italica and the Monastery of San Isidoro del Campo is highly recommended. It's a simple and informative way to travel through more than two millennia of history.
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